After leaving
El Questro we went and camped at the Pentecost River as we heard people talking
about the Barra and people catching them.
We tried all afternoon but once again those elusive Barra escaped
us. Glen tried a bit of night fishing,
and we were lucky enough to see dinoflagellates in the water create a bioluminescence (basically
you can see the fish glow in the dark as they swim through the water!). The next morning we headed to Wyndham but
since we had to pass the intersection for Zebedee Springs we thought we better
stop in for one more soak! Then we went
to Wyndham. We did a little tour of the
town but being Sunday afternoon, everything was shut. We did enjoy our walk down the jetty and
exploring the settlement history of Wyndham and why they moved the town to
where it is now. Then that evening the
sunset at Five Rivers lookout didn’t disappoint. The next morning, we started
our journey to the Bungle Bungles and we stopped off at the Grotto for a
look. Last time when we were here it was
the end of the wet season and the waterfall was flowing and this was a very
inviting swimming hole. This time being
the end of the dry season the waterfall has dried up and the water looked a bit
stagnate for a swim, but this meant that we could walk along the dry river bed
and find the rock art. We were a little
disappointed to find that someone has tried to draw over some of the art work
with chalk, however we were able to appreciate the original art that has been
left relatively untouched. It was then back in the car to make our way to the
Bungle Bungle road we have heard so much about.
When we arrived we spoke to someone that had just driven the road and he
gave us confidence that it was not as bad as some people say. So we let down the tyres and away we
went. We were pleasantly surprised that
the road was not as bad as we were expecting.
We did get a little concerned at the first water crossing as there was
nothing to tell us how deep it was. We
made it through and continued on our way commenting on how the road was not
great, but it is not that bad. Then
disaster struck, a car passed us and flicked up a rock and smashed the back
rear side window. So it was out of the car for some running repairs, bushman
style. We ‘fixed’ the window with some
garbage bags and duct tape and then continued our way to camp. That night we all sat at the sunset lookout
and marvelled at the landscape before us and decided this was bucket list stuff!
It was then home for a rest before we tackle the walks!
The first
walk we did was the Mini Palms walk.
This was spectacular! It really is a place that you have to see to
believe. The photos just don’t do it
justice. Everywhere you look you see
something different and beautiful in it’s own right.
We once again enjoyed the walk over rocks and boulders and were again
rewarded with a spectacular view at the end.
It was then
on to Echinda Chasm. This was once again a walk that needs to be experienced.
You feel so small as you walk between the huge, towering cliff faces and
the colours in the rocks are incredible.
As we continued to walk the light continued to change and this changed the
colours of the rocks in the chasm. As you went further in the path got narrower
and narrower. The glow of the sun
hitting the rocks made it once again something that photos just don’t do
justice to. We waited for the time that
the sun is directly overhead of the chasm to see the light fill it and then the
glow starts to happen on the other side as the sun continues it’s journey to
sunset. We then went back to camp to rest up for a big hike the following day.
On day 2 of our Bungle Bungle exploration we decided to do all the walks on the South side. This meant the 10km walk to Whipsnake Gorge was up first! Along the way we added to the 10km by completing the Piccaninny Lookout walk and the Natures Window walk. These both gave a different view of the Bungle Bungle Range. We continued on to Whipsnake Gorge and were very pleased to find shade as we got closer to the Gorge. Once we made it to the Gorge we stopped for some well earned morning tea, a rest and enjoyed the beautiful scenery once again. It was then time to start making our way back and the walk back was HOT! It was now about 36 degrees and not much shade at all. On our way out we also completed the Cathedral Gorge Walk where Emmalisa enjoyed hearing how her voice sounded when she sang in the natural amphitheatre. To finish off our big day exploring the South Side we went through the Domes Walk and were amazed by these orange and black dome structures. We worked out that by the end we had walked about 13km in stifling heat and we had previously made the deal with the kids that any walk over 10km earns them an ice cream. So we headed straight for the visitors centre and all enjoyed what seemed like the best tasting ice cream we have ever had! It was then back to camp where we all rested our very weary legs. On our last night we enjoyed one last sunset over the Bugle Bungle Range and enjoyed watching the colours change on the range as the the glow of the sun went down. The next morning we were up early as there was 1 walk left that we hadn't yet completed and we felt we could not leave any trail un-walked! So it was off to Homestead Valley. This was a much easier walk and was in the morning shade so it was a nice way to finish off our time at the Bungle Bungles.
It was then time to head back out to the highway and find some smooth bitumen again! This time we made the drive on the infamous Bungle Bungle road incident free! That night we stopped at Ngumban Cliffs to camp and enjoyed yet another amazing WA sunset! The next morning we went on the Mimbi Caves Tour which was interesting but definitely conducted 'Kimberley Casual Style'. The kids were intrigued to be part of the smoking ceremony that welcomed us to country. We all were a little unsure if the tour guide was having a lend of us when we were told to pick up a rock to take to the cave with us. When we got to the entrance of the cave we were told to rub the rock under our armpits and then throw the rock into the water. It was then explained to us that in their culture we had a foreign scent to their land so by rubbing the rock under our arms and throwing it in the water our scent then becomes familiar with the land. It was interesting walking through the caves and learning about the German Geologists that have studied this area and all the things they left behind like a chess set carved from the rocks.
After the Mimbi Caves tour we made our way to Langi Crossing, an old fishing spot of Glen's. We could not get over how much it had changed. 12 years ago when we used to camp here you would just bring a mossie dome or a swag and camp on the river bank and you would be lucky (or unlucky?) to see another person. Now there were caravans and camps set up as far as the eye could see. Last time we were here you might have seen a few boats on the river and now it looked like Sydney Harbour! We thought that this must be a good sign as people wouldn't come here if you didn't catch fish! That afternoon, through no lack of trying we still didn't manage to catch anything. We did however enjoy a campfire and toasted marshmallows! The next morning was our one last shot at a fish and.....Glen caught our first Barra! The kid were so excited and now believe that Barra do exist! The good news was, we caught a Barra, the bad news was, it was 1cm under size so we had to put him back to grow a bit bigger for another day. To celebrate our catch we enjoyed a chocolate chip damper for morning tea and then made our way to Broome!
Sunset fishing on the Pentecost River
Sunset at Five Rivers Lookout
We had a bit of a problem on the Bungle Bungles Road!
Lookout in Mini Palms walk
The rock formations on the Mini Palms walk
The glow inside Echidna Chasm
Glen standing in the orange glow of Echidna Chasm
The orange and black rock formations
Sunset over the Bungle Bungle Range
The 'more secure fix' before we head back to the highway!
The chess set the German Geologists carved from stone at Mimbi Caves
Our first Barra for the trip!